The barnacle, Spaniards' favourite Christmas dish, imperilled by climate change
By Leonardo Benassatto and Nacho Doce
December 25, 2024 at 1:00:02 PM
Barnacle picker Moncho Canizas, 53, shows barnacles that were picked on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 20, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce
Manolo, 54, who is a barnacle picker, uses a tool called ferrada to pick barnacles on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 21, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce
Jose Luis, 75, who is a barnacle picker, places barnacles in a bag called Mandileta, that were picked from the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 21, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce
A worker arranges boxes with barnacles that were caught off the Atlantic coasts of Galicia during an auction ahead Christmas celebrations in the port of Coruna, Spain December 21, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce, Spain
Barnacle picker Moncho Canizas, 53, shows barnacles that were picked on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 20, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce
A worker arranges boxes with barnacles that were caught off the Atlantic coasts of Galicia during an auction ahead Christmas celebrations in the port of Coruna, Spain December 21, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce, Spain
Manolo, 54, who is a barnacle picker, uses a tool called ferrada to pick barnacles on the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 21, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce
Jose Luis, 75, who is a barnacle picker, places barnacles in a bag called Mandileta, that were picked from the rocks of Coast of Death (Costa Da Morte) on the Ocean Atlantic in the Galicia region, near Corme, Spain December 21, 2024. REUTERS/Nacho Doce
By Leonardo Benassatto and Nacho Doce
CORME, Spain (Reuters) - On the craggy rocks on northwestern Spain's treacherous Costa da Morte (Death Coast), wetsuit-clad fishermen dodge crashing waves as they pick barnacles, a prized Christmas delicacy facing decline due to climate change and other factors.
Fetching up to 200 euros ($208) per kilogram (2.2 pounds) during the holiday season, the gooseneck barnacle from the Galicia region has long been treasured by Spaniards for both its flavour and difficulty to harvest.
However, the rise in sea temperatures driven by climate change has severely affected barnacle habitats, as they thrive in icy waters. A recent study by the University of Vigo also linked changing wave patterns to lower quality in the shellfish.
Israel Martinez, an auctioneer in the A Coruna fish market, said that there used to be double or triple the number of barnacles just 10 years ago.
Despite state regulations - such as limiting daily harvests to 7 kg per fisherman - illegal fishing has surged due to the barnacles' high value.
Licensed percebeiros, or barnacle pickers, have called for increased policing of the coast to deter poachers.
Their job is classified as a risky profession due to the adverse work conditions.
"The percebeiro trade on the Costa da Morte is dying. This is due to climate change, absurd laws, illegal fishing and a lack of workers," 36-year-old Roberto Vidal, who started out as a percebeiro at 16, told Reuters.
He said there used to be between 100 and 200 percebeiros in his town of Corme. Now, there are around 30.
Fellow percebeiro Serafin Rodriguez said that future generations would be unable to follow in his footsteps due to declining barnacle populations.
($1 = 0.9616 euros)
(Writing by David Latona; Editing by Andrei Khalip and Sharon Singleton)
Reuters is a news agency owned by Thomson Reuters Corporation. It employs around 2,500 journalists and 600 photojournalists in about 200 locations worldwide. Reuters is one of the largest news agencies in the world.
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